the main attractionStarting with a selection of oysters, tuna sashimi and mussels served over ice, we quickly moved onto the main attraction – three types of lobster: a consommé royale, then a duo combination of lobster baked en croute with a delectable light cream caviar sauce and veal stock reduction, and finally a classic half steamed rainbow lobster with clarified butter dressing and tofu. If beachside seafood is on your 'to do' list whilst in Bali and the sandy Jimbaran cafés don't quite match your indulgent expectations, then Kisik will certainly do the job. Back up the steps to the main grounds of The Ritz and a short hop to the Club Suites and it's lights out as we sit on the verandah, bottle of chilled Chilean in hand, as a distant electrical storm somewhere out to sea slowly makes its way inland.
I can personally testify to the fact that it takes a lot of self-determination, motivation and a roaring appetite to drag oneself from the comfy four-poster bed in the suite. But the promise of a hearty breakfast of eggs benedict and mimosas in the Club Lounge just about provided the necessary stimulation to get the day going before we took a stroll down to the Ocean Beach Pool to make the most of the glorious sunshine. The Ritz literally has a hundred poolside options dotted around with the Ocean Beach Pool affording guests a 180-degree view of the Indian Ocean flanked by a tropical rainforest of flourishing trees and natural rockery. Alas the unpredictable weather of this time of the year has other plans for us sun seekers, forcing us to beat a retreat in the direction of the spa, this time to experience the Cinta Abadi, or 'Eternal Love' treatment for couples.
The intimacy of the private treatment room for couples is an absolute treat for the senses. Starting with a flower petal foot wash and hot towel wrap with fresh red rose and frangipani petals we moved onto the massage tables, side by side for our body scrubs. My partner chose the Javanese Lulur with turmeric and I went for the popular Mineral Scrub with Lavender oil to relax every facet of my being. There's something wholly endearing about a couples treatment that makes a spa trip way more enjoyable than a solo endeavor; perhaps it's the opportunity to point and laugh at your other half cavorting around in those notorious black paper panties or, more likely, the twenty minutes of frolicking in the milk bath with hundreds of rose petals (cue repeated pleadings for champagne) that really is wasted on just one person. The 'Cinta Abadi' treatment is rounded off with an application of Lavender oil, a sensual signature Aromatic Petal Massage and a revitalizing Traditional Natural Facial. For a truly special therapy guests can pay a visit to the very unique Spa on the Rocks, a short buggy ride down to the cliffs and a descent to a private treatment room with a stunning panoramic view over the ocean. Using only the best Crème de la Mer products, couples can pamper themselves with the Aroma Sensation treatment or the truly hedonistic Diamond Miracle package with a 500 rose petal bath, a therapeutic massage utilizing oils with elements of silk and pearl and championed by the millionaires Crème de la Mer facial using a highly secretive formula of sea quartz and pure diamond dust…
Dutifully pampered it was time to head to The Martini Bar for some cocktail shaking action with the team as we partook in one of the new Martini Classes with the highly knowledgeable barman Komang. After a brief intro it was all hands on deck to produce (if we may say so) two very fine Martini concoctions – the Oyster Martini, a classic pre dinner tipple and the sublime Toblerone Martini with Frangelico, Kahlua, Balieys, fresh honey and cream, shaken and poured into a frozen glass with bitter chocolate frosted rim. Oyster Martini and accompanying fresh oysters imbibed it was ten steps to our table at the chic and celebrated Dava for one of Chef Dean Keddell's trademark dinnertime feasts. A restaurant so sleek in its dental white and spearmint green décor, the charming and discreet service staff in their Gucci-esque black uniforms could only further compliment the stylish interior of Dava as we ordered a bottle of ice cold Calittera and perused the menu for accompanying dishes.
The Dava eight course degustation menu hosts such inclusions as the salt and pepper foie gras with gingered figs in a sweet sour broth which is a must try dish here, a joy to the palate that should definitely be on the regular a la carte menu alongside other winning plates such as the quirky foie gras terrine with parsnip ice cream. For the main course at Dava the duck served three ways is recommended. A trio of duck soup with dim sum style dumplings, enoki mushroom and barbequed pork, house roasted Peking duck with crispy tempura asparagus and a show stopping foie gras apple pancake with rice wine jus. Keeping the apple theme running we chose the warm apple brioche and custard pudding with butterscotch pudding and green apple sorbet as a dessert to share before stopping back at the bar for one of the irresistible Toblerone martinis.
Pampered, fed and ready for bed, another night at The Ritz Carlton drew to a close, the rain started to fall heavily and it was a return to the comfort of the suite to ride out the storm, in one of the best seats in the house.
It's a tough call in Bali trying to choose the best romantic restaurant for that all-important Valentine's dinner date. The island is awash with a wide variety of classy, high quality dining establishments but none embodies a commitment to serving a continually evolving tasting menu quite as well as Chris Salans's Mozaic (Jl Sanggingan, T: 0361 975 768).
Take the sunken tropical garden with al fresco dining tables under the stars, the recently revamped (and enlarged) pavilion area, the option of chic private dining for groups in the Miele sponsored kitchen or the intimacy of the best table in Mozaic, the garden gazebo - perfect for a romantic indulgence this valentines.
Completely segregated from the 'hoi polloi' in the garden the gazebo affords couples the best seat in the house – certainly the most private – from which to enjoy the surprise chef's degustation menu and wine pairing, you certainly wouldn't want to skimp with the a la carte menu on a night like this, would you?

"It's all new creations tonight," beamed James, Chris's new protégé who is running the kitchen this evening, "we'll be starting with a truffle of asparagus soup, asparagus salad for the first course." Already salivating at the prospect of the soup I was even more pleasantly surprised when my wagyhu sirloin carpaccio with parmageno emulsion and Balinese rendang sauce arrived on the table. Clearly James had the notion that both my partner and myself would be sampling individual creations this evening…
Paired with a Pinot Noir 2004 the waghyu is a taste sensation but takes a bow to the hearty asparagus soup with chunks of fresh truffle and shaved asparagus teasing the palate into sensory submission.
The woody, fruity and well balanced tannins of the Chilean Tabali Reserve Especial 2004 (subsequently hunted for island wide, and later located in the fridge at Bali Deli) wooed the table, a stunning accompaniment to the dreamy confit of Tasmanian salmon and 'all things apple jelly', cinnamon emulsion, lemongrass and ginger.
What Chris and James both excel at at Mozaic is their ability to mingle authentic Balinese flavours with ambitious, cutting-edge fusion plates. Take the scallops with a spicy, nutty Balinese Rujak sauce served on a light tamarind and ginger pearl risotto and paired with a deep, dusky New Zealand Pinot Noir 2006 and the "knife clenchingly good" (so my partner described) quail, cooked sous vide with foie gras, fresh pear puree, star anise and fresh pear salad and matched with an outstanding Chateau Paveil de Luxe, Margeux 2000 - simply destructive in the marriage of textures and characteristics.
The main courses are no less rewarding to our table, the 'knife and fork clenchingly good' lamb with chestnuts, red cabbage and cranberry coulis dressed with a four pepper sauce and the baked spice nuggets of juniper, almonds, palm sugar and black pepper is a Mozaic classic. (It's taken nigh on a year to drag the components of the baked spices out of the chefs at Mozaic, reader). The loin of tuna with Balinese sambal matah (a spicy medley of shallots, garlic, lemon leaves, chilies and lemongrass), chili infused Pinot Noir reduction with endive and sweet corn, braised with vanilla and coriander seed is a new addition to the menu and comes thoroughly recommended.
As we wound down into the dessert offerings of a blimbing (very acidic berries of the East Indian sorrel family), sorbet poached in cinnamon and chili and served with slivers of young starfruit and a devilish chocolate moelleux with turmeric ice cream and a lemon tart soufflé on the side (just for good measures!), the evening fades into a surreal dreamscape of distant flavours and aromas. Mozaic provides 99% of the ingredients for the perfect romantic dinner this Valentine's, incredible cuisine, excellent wine pairing, attentive and knowledgeable service staff, a sublime setting and chic ambience. All you have to do is arrive and indulge…
Looking to push the envelope out a little further this Valentine's Day and show the person you love that, well, you really love them? Then an outing to Bvlgari (Jl Goa Lempeh, T: 0361 847 1000) should definitely be top of your list. Presuming that you aren't already an in-house guest of the Italian connoisseurs of taste then it's only a forty minute taxi ride down to the Pecatu village, near Uluwatu and the earth shattering views out over the Indian Ocean that this clifftop resort boasts, perched hundreds of feet above the surf pounding the Bukit shoreline.
So, what's on the cards for a day at Bvlgari? First things first; it's a trip down to the spa by buggy (you won't want to be huffing and puffing your way up and down the narrow, steep pathways on foot – breaking a sweat at Bvlgari would be most unsightly) and a grand entrance into the clifftop reconstructed Joglo from Kudus in Central Java that leads to the eight private spa pavilions and treatment rooms.
No expense has been spared in maximizing the awesome natural resources on offer; namely the view, as three of the treatment rooms literally overhang the cliff edge with uninterrupted views out to the horizon. Guests that are in need of some serious indulgence here can book a treatment in the Royal Private Spa Pavillion with luxurious steam shower and secluded, outdoor plunge pool.
the cliff side
For us it's a trip to the smaller treatment rooms on the cliff side where there is no music played, instead you just savor the distant lull of the crashing Uluwatu surf. After a strong, revitalizing tamarind juice with and a change into spa robes and comfy Bvlgari spa slippers it's time to select which ESPA oils to use for the 1 hour and 50 minute Balinese Single Hand Massage. Starting with a welcoming frangipani foot ritual before submitting to the deeply relaxing volcanic lava hot stone massage. By placing the stones on specific energy points (or Chakras) the stones may help clear any blockages in the energy centres, in turn inducing a deep relaxed state of being and dissolving stress along the way.
The jury is still out as to whether this technique actually produces any real results but this is the second hot stone treatment I've had in Bali and both times I've found the onset of flu like symptoms take hold within 24 hours after the treatment followed by a renewed level of energy and a healthier appearance, there may be some detoxification benefits to hot stone therapies that warrants further investigation…
After a quick shower it's back into the slippers and a healthy tuna sashimi and green tea snack in the relaxation pavilion. Freshly scrubbed and rejuvenated it's down to the poolside to catch the late afternoon rays and into the clifftop hot tubs to drain some trademark Bvlgari herbalitos as the sun glides down over the distant Uluwatu sea temples.
As daylight fades over the resort the Bvlgari bar, Sangkar restaurant and tiered thatched roofs of the guest bungalows the resort takes on a new lease of life. Subtle up-lighting compliments the minimalist layout around the infinity pool and guides us up to Il Ristorante, the (very) fine dining Italian restaurant that commands vantage over both the bar and pool. It's a breezy evening in Il Ristorante as we take our table, the icy white tablecloth seeming to float against the pitch-black restaurant interior. A waiter appears out of nowhere with perhaps the largest wine list I've yet to see in Bali and the newly appointed chef, Diego, breezes in from another part of the room to suggest some absolute 'must tries' from the evening's menu.
The Stuzzichino (pre-appetizer) of parmesan cheese and poppy seeds tempura with caramelized red onions is first to the table accompanied by a light, dry and crispy 2005 Domaine Billaud-Simon, Chardonnay from Chablis, France before the Wagyu beef carpaccio starter, brushed with tamarind oil and parmesan brittle and served with wild arugala tantalizes our table alongside a recommended bottle of 2001 Castello Banfi, Brunello Di Montalcino Brunello from Toscana, Italy.
The pan-seared scallops, field mushrooms and organic green leaf salad is my first main course (being in Italian territory there are two mains served in Il Ristorante) whilst my partner is served carnal delight on a plate in the form of a very savoury carnaroli risotto with vanilla, rosemary and foie gras. The second main courses are no less breathtaking in pleasing the palate. My imported French duck breast, potato gnocchi sautéed with goat cheese, sun dried tomatoes and radicchio is rivaled only by the lamb loin with baby spinach, sweet and sour capsicum cream and apple rosemary that finds its way to the other side of the Castello Banfi.
Every time that I have eaten at Il Ristorante I have been overawed by the quality of the dessert and this evening is no exception, although I do request that Diego prepare a lighter dish to accompany the 2003 Castello Banfi, Florus, Moscadello Di Montalcino from Toscana; a wonderfully rounded dessert wine that doesn't overpower the palate and lends an incredible edge to my strawberries sautéed with traditional balsamic vinegar and honey-comb ice cream. A displeasing eye greets me from my partner's direction, she has no qualms in ordering the manjari chocolate dome, a moelleux of very fine dark chocolate with a simple accompaniment of freshly made vanilla ice cream.
The final touch
The final touch to the evening is the Bvlgari blended aribica (also known as the coffee shrub of Arabia) espresso and petit fours before a short hop onto one of the buggies to cruise us once again, up the steep Bvlgari lanes to the lobby entrance.
As with everything of quality and refinement in life, it doesn't come cheap and an afternoon in the company of these Italian tastemakers is no exception. However the finesse and fine attention to detail at Bvlgari does make for the perfect romantic trip.
The streets of Legian, Kuta are hardly synonymous with discreet luxury, the grinding traffic, over zealous hawkers, tasteless bars and ghost-town restaurants immediately dispel any notion of stumbling across even the slightest hint of five star pampering in this part of town.
With this Kuta cliché firmly in mind it comes as something of a (very welcome) surprise to discover one of Bali's best spas tucked away off the main drag of Legian. Owners Michelle Tanaja and Jimmy Gunawan (of Villa De Daun fame) and interior designers Zouhara Boukhari have painstakingly concocted one of the island's most beautiful beautification havens with Da La, (Jl Legian, T: 0361 755 728) and on entering the premises you can see the devotion and attention to detail just dripping from the walls.
Each of the seven treatment rooms represent seven different exotic flowers, continuing the theme of Da La (a literal translation from Sanskrit being 'leaf') and each of the rooms has it's own character and ambience, perfectly matched to the nature of your treatment. To try out this 'ambience to therapy' matching theory we chose the Tutti Fruity spa (in the funky Cattlieya room) for one half of the reviewing team whilst the remaining two of us found ourselves ushered into the grandiose Ixora room for the Royal Wedding Ritual, the title being perhaps a little overzealous considering we are in the early stages of dating but the treatment itself being utterly conducive to some serious romantic indulgence.
Once the privilege of royal brides in the ancient palaces of Central Java in the days building up to the wedding event, this 2.5 hour wedding treatment is the last word in romantic spa indulgence. Everything from the dark, subtle red hues and hypnotic background music to the highly experienced and professional therapists make for an unforgettable feast for the senses. After a rose petal foot wash the ritual begins with a 60 minute Balinese massage using essential aromatic oils of your choice before the highlight of the treatment, the Javanese lulur exfoliation. Using a very traditional Javanese paste of turmeric, sandalwood and rice powder the healing nature of the ingredients is left to soak into and replenish the skin before a hydrating natural yoghurt polish removes any trace evidence of the turmeric and brings you back to life.
Next comes the delightful 7-flower milk bath, which handsomely recreates the Javanese passage of rights to marriage as the bride to be is bathed by her parents. With no parents in sight (mercifully) it is left to the suitor to take charge of the cleansing duties and earn some well-deserved brownie points along the way…
A calming blend of chrysanthemum and ginger tea later and our missing party emerges into the open from her Tuti Fruity treatment looking a million times fresher and happier than on earlier admittance. "The watermelon and honey facial did it for me," she beamed, continuing on to describe at great length the stress relieving orange and lime milk bath. Da La truly is one of a kind, the perfect romantic treat this valentine's day.